These days there is far greater concern with sustainability across every sector of industry, fashion included.
Within the fashion industry, though, jewellery is a subject that gets little attention. It tends to slip past unnoticed because the pieces are so beautiful, made from precious materials. Yet it is an industry that can damage the environment and perpetuate an unethical chain of labour.
So with this article I want to shed a little more light on the subject, and on why it matters to our society and our planet that we have ethical, sustainable jewellers operating with greater transparency, and that we change the way we consume.
The consequences of unsustainable jewellery
As remarkable and as alarming as it sounds, for every diamond extracted around 250 tonnes of earth are moved, and every year we mine roughly 148 million carats.
But how does that affect the environment? Loss of biodiversity, soil degradation and falling water quality are only some of the consequences.
Mining carries a high environmental impact, particularly when it comes to generating waste and disposing of it improperly.
The collapse of a tailings dam, for instance, can cause serious harm to the people living around the mine, as happened in the towns of Mariana and Brumadinho in Minas Gerais, Brazil. Sadly it does not end there: over the years there have been many other such accidents around the world.
Mining accidents also tend to kill thousands of plants and animal species, and to degrade soils rapidly.
Beyond that, there are other factors, such as:
- Air pollution: the pollutants released in manufacturing are extremely dangerous to the atmosphere, and are known as HAPs. It is estimated that for every carat extracted, around 57kg of carbon monoxide (CO) is emitted;
- Water waste and pollution: extracting precious stones takes large quantities of water, and groundwater is contaminated with toxic substances such as mercury, cyanide and sulphuric acid;
- High workplace risk and exploitation: miners are constantly exposed to toxic products and to risks in cutting gems, since most facilities lack adequate equipment, safety measures and ventilation. Working conditions end up being unfair and financial compensation is minimal.
So what does sustainable jewellery mean?
The main factor that earns a brand the label of responsible, sustainable and ethical jeweller is transparency in its raw materials chain.
Upcycling is one of the good practices that has long been part of jewellery’s history and should remain an option. Essentially it means reusing materials (recyclable or from waste) or reworking jewellery that has already been worn, so as to avoid fresh extraction.
Where a jeweller does obtain its precious metals by mining, it matters that it is transparent about its extraction practices, so as to cut polluting gas emissions and minimise damage to the environment.
A significant current trend in sourcing precious stones is lab production, through the Kimberley Process. Even so, it remains a process with limited transparency, since there is no way of knowing how much energy is needed to power the machinery involved.
Finally, a sustainable jeweller cares a great deal about ethics at work, ensuring health and safety measures as well as fair pay for everyone involved in the production chain.
Sustainable brands that stand out in jewellery
Now that you know what ecological jewellery and sustainable jewellers are, it is time to meet some brands that have already adopted new, transparent practices in developing their products.
Out of this list of several brands, I want to highlight 3 that lead on sustainability and ethics in the extraction, supply and distribution of precious stones: Wonther, Tiffany & Co and Cartier.
Come with me and meet them all!
Wonther
First on the list is Wonther, an ethical and responsible brand that sources only materials certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council, where the entire supply and extraction chain aims to avoid harming the environment and to respect workers’ rights and safety.
The collections are modern, delicate and timeless, which makes you want to wear the pieces all the more, with the clear conscience of knowing you have made a choice that serves sustainable development.
The brand was selected by Rachael Wang to take part in a Teen Vogue editorial on the fight to make processes in the fashion industry more sustainable, ethical and inclusive. Wonther has also been featured in magazines including Elle, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar.
And there is more: at checkout you will get a special bonus by using the code JOANAM10
Tiffany & Co.
Tiffany & Co. is known for traceability and transparency in how its diamonds are extracted, and was in fact the first global luxury jeweller to tell its customers which countries its diamonds are bought in, with each one individually registered.
The brand also encourages and promotes diversity and inclusive workplaces, with the aim of bringing growth to its employees and to the communities where it operates. The company has contributed more than 59 million dollars to the economy of Botswana in Africa, for example.
The brand has been on the market for more than 25 years and plenty of celebrities we all know have worn its pieces, among them Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Gal Gadot.
Cartier
Cartier is one of the leaders in sustainable technology for its pieces. Among the highlights are watches with straps made from apple fibres discarded in Germany, Italy and Switzerland.
That initiative cuts carbon emissions by a factor of six, as well as saving water and energy, compared with straps made from animal leather. The company has also launched a solar-powered watch with a photovoltaic movement, doing away with conventional batteries.
Like Wonther, this brand holds ethics and sustainability certification from the Responsible Jewellery Council.
H.Stern
Although founded by the German Hans Stern, H.Stern is a Brazilian star. As well as being known for bringing a new shine to the world jewellery market, the company also works on sustainability.
Every year since 1975, H.Stern has run a trunk show where customers can bring in their used pieces to be valued and exchanged for credit against new purchases.
The brand has collections featuring a range of precious jewellery, from wedding rings to watches, and has appeared on the cover of Vogue Brasil.
Bulgari
Bulgari, the Italian brand that has been on the market for 130 years, only came to prominence as a sustainable jeweller in 2021 and 2022, when it announced that all of its gold jewellery would be 100% certified and traced.
The brand also entered a partnership with Cartier for what is known as the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, which aims to guarantee sustainable and ethical gold production, gold being one of the most widely used materials in the sector.
Bulgari has been on the list of Responsible Jewellery Council members since 2006 and aims to keep developing sustainability improvements across its production chain.
Vashi
Vashi Dominguez, founder, chairman and CEO of Vashi, has made it his mission, after two decades in the industry, to make jewellery ethical and accessible to everyone.
The British brand wants to reduce its impact on the planet and is therefore rethinking its value chain. It takes pride in working with 100% recycled gold and silver, and only buys diamonds from suppliers certified through the Kimberley Process and guided by UN resolutions. On top of that, every piece is produced locally and to order.
Vivara
Vivara, a 100% Brazilian brand whose digital sales grew by more than 160% in 2021, is also a sustainable brand, and dresses major Brazilian celebrities such as the actresses Marina Ruy Barbosa, Ísis Valverde and Flávia Alessandra.
The brand reaffirms its commitment as a responsible jeweller and is the only 100% Brazilian member of the Responsible Jewellery Council. It is also part of the Global Compact Network Brazil, aligning its activities with the 17 Sustainable Development Goals.
All of the company’s extraction and mining operations are carried out properly and fairly, for the environment and for people, outside conflict zones, through the Kimberley Process.
Carol Bassi Jewelry
Last, a Brazilian brand with its own atelier in São Paulo and online shops, as well as resale through multi-brand retailers such as Gallerist and Shop2Together.
Carol Bassi Jewelry launched the Nature line, featured in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar Brasil. It is 100% sustainable, with earrings, rings and necklaces in white gold set with other precious stones such as emeralds and rose quartz.
The gold in the new 100% ecological line is reused, and the stones come from the jeweller’s own collection.
As well as being a brand with only ecological jewellery, 10% of all sales go to Permacultura Ecovida São Miguel in Minas Gerais, an institute working to defend the ecosystem through courses and campaigns.
Contributing to a better planet through jewellery
There is no need to damage the environment and contribute to labour exploitation in various countries in order to feel beautiful and elegant. Nothing justifies choices that sacrifice the planet just so we can stand out at an event with refined, high-shine jewellery.
Most of the biggest jewellery brands in the world are already involved, putting practices in place that have a positive impact on extraction and on sustainable, ethical production.
Today, getting hold of ecological, responsible jewellery is very easy and very accessible. Beyond these brands, there are independent designers and local shops that can also offer ecological and ethically sound products. So you know what that means, no excuses! 🙂
